News from the TrenchesPosted: March 6, 2011
Life seems to have got in the way of this project. It’s not that I haven’t been sewing – just not for me (again). Progress has been very slow although I have now tried the body on and am fairly happy with the fit.It looks better on me than Bessie. I have used fine sheer fuzing to interline the cotton – it is giving just enough support as I didn’t want to have a ‘stiff’ coat.
I have used a technique from an old issue of ‘Threads’ magazine. In issue 75 there was an article on ‘No Bulk Envelope Welts’. I remembered thinking it looked like a good idea but had never got round to putting it in a garment (although I had sampled it). As you can see it relies on mitres to move the seam away from the sides of the flap so there is much less bulk under the needle when you sew the pockets to the garment. I have done things in slightly the wrong order so that I could get the placement where I wanted which means that I am going to have to work the pockets with the garment almost together.
I would have had to make a major ‘full bust adjustment’ in any commercial pattern but since this pattern was cut from my own jacket block/sloper (Made from the instructions in the Winifred Aldrich pattern Cutting for Womenswear book) I just had to make the darts I needed look reasonably attractive. I divided the volume between three darts in the side/front seam which I am fairly happy with. All the seams are to be topstitched (in classic denim fashion) so I stitched the darts down too.
The other slight irritation at the moment is that I found a couple of buttons in my stock that were just perfect. Except there aren’t enough for this garment. I have searched locally and not found anything I am as happy with so I am going to have to go to Birmingham where the choice is larger. It is my plan to send the belts to Harlequin to have the eyelets put in – they do such a good job I don’t think it’s worth me messing up the work I have put in trying to do them myself. If I can’t find suitable buttons I may have them do edged covered buttons which will look fine.
I am hoping to find some time tomorrow to continue this. Perhaps I was a bit optimistic to think I could finish this in February! (And the curtains…… don’t ask.)
P.S. Me-Made March is going well but it has highlighted how many ‘tops’ I make rather than skirts/trousers. Will have to address that.