Skirt progressPosted: August 17, 2011
Around the work I have to finish for clients and the wonderful new autumn fabrics which arrived yesterday (more about those in a later post!) I have made a start on the skirt.
I stitched the backs together and set the zip, worked the back vent (I hate plain ‘splits’ in the back of skirts) as I was sure any alterations would need to be in the side seams. Whilst there are many tutorials out there to show how to put in a concealed zip rarely do I see the small change I make to help keep things straight and easy. My method is this:
- Sew the seam – leaving an open length longer than needed for just the zip.
- Stitch the open part of the seam with a long stitch (to be pulled out later) and gently press open. This gives you a good guide to settle the zipper teeth against. Pull out the stitching.
- Pin the zip very close to the teeth to hold the zip in place just alongside the pressed turn. Stitch along the length of the zip away from the teeth – this holds the zip in place so that you can sew a second seam close to the teeth without the need for pins (which get in the way) but holds the zip so you dont get any curves.(See photographs)
- Sew back up from the closed back seam to the bottom of the zipper to within 1 stitch of the zipper seams. If you now anchor the bottom of the zip to the seam allowance with a few stitches on each side it seems to be easier to pull.
- This always works for me and is no more work than a standard way of working – provided you are sure of the fit – otherwise there is one more set of stitches to unpick.
I work the back vent so that it is easy to put in a lining (if you want one) but it still looks neat if not lined. By cutting a fairly large extension (I cut 12cm here) it will allow enough fabric to fold back completely and allow the raw edge to join the seam allowance. It is necessary to cut diagonally down to the seam end so that it will open up to be pressed flat, and when the extension folds back over the seam it is now possible to sew across the main seam allowance and the overlapping vent allowance to create one long seam (easier to see in the middle photograph than to explain). Only the vent fabric is sewn – not the outside garment fabric.This can now be finished as you would any vent/hem. I will show the finished vent in my next post.
I have sewn the side seams and tried it on – apart from having to take in the waist a little (hurrah!) it was a good fit and I am happy to continue to finish. Hopefully tomorrow.