I don’t sew for other people any more. At all. No exceptions ….. apart from family.
When my naughty little sister came to stay a while back she managed to make off with some sports gear I had made but I prevented her from liberating my orange Stacie jeans jacket. But only by promising to make her one of her own. I knew I had some suitable denim which I bought years ago in the Birmingham rag market – a very lucky find – in my stash so I could even clear a bit of space by doing it. She even approved of my choice of Apple green. Hurrah!
I spent a bit of time making it look all pretty on the inside (like the leopard jacket) using the leftover lining from my Patrones coat. Sadly I forgot to take a picture, and even the finished picture I took wasn’t a particularly good one but I’m afraid it will have to do. You’ll have to take my word that the innards looked very nice.
The Management was up in Northumberland last weekend so he was able to deliver it, and she has since confirmed that it fits (we basically have interchangeable wardrobes these days so I was confident it would) and she likes it. Phew.
This is the fourth Stacie I have made now – there’s the orange, the black, the (fabulous) leopard, and now the green – which got me thinking about how often we use patterns. I don’t think I have many which are better used than this but I have many still waiting for action. It’s very easy to get carried away when you see a fabulous garment that someone else is blogging and buy the pattern with every intention of making it post haste ….. and then life gets in the way.
So ….. I am going to set an intention here to use one unused pattern a month for the rest of this year. Anyone want to join me?
In my last post I said I thought that a Style Arc Stacie in my leopard fabric, inspired by the wonderful Tan France, would be a winner. Judge for yourselves….
I was reduced to a Kindle selfie so apologies for the photo quality. I might not look it but I’m outstandingly happy with this version. This is my third Style Arc Stacie – the others are here – so there’s not a great deal to say about the pattern other than it really is an exceptionally good pattern. All the markers line up, the instructions are Style Arc sketchy but easy enough to follow, and the design is classic enough to wear forever. The pockets are mock pockets but I don’t mind that as it prevents me adding any unnecessary bulk over the bust.
I made the jacket up straight from the pattern – no adjustments needed. The fabric was from stash – booty from a Birmingham shopping trip that has waited patiently for the opportunity to shine. This time I decided to finish all the seams nicely as they are in show in this unlined jacket. I covered the yokes in the same lining fabric and used the burrito method to ensure everything looked tidy inside. I’m really glad I took the time on these finishes as it’s turned a good jacket into something a bit special.
The buttons were the standard hammer on jeans buttons which are barely visible on this fabric but I love them.
Check out Bessie wearing it.
I wore this out to lunch with friends today and was very, very happy with it. I think we do indeed have a winner 🏆
Some time ago I saw an Instagram post by the lovely Celia of Fig Jam and Lime Cordial which had a picture to promote the new series of Queer Eye. I was totally taken by the leopard print jacket that Tan France was wearing and decided I HAD TO HAVE THAT JACKET!!!
The decision to be made after locating the fabric was which pattern to use. I really love my Style Arc Stacie jeans jackets but wondered if it might be time to try a different option – and I had a pattern that had been waiting patiently for a very long time. I checked with The Management to see what he thought. Try the new pattern was the outcome.
I have to confess immediately that this jacket was to be made as a wearable muslin. You know, one of those thrown together projects just to test the style and fit of a new pattern. Clearly I didn’t get that memo.
The pattern is Vogue 1293, an Anne Klein design with jacket and trousers. I can’t remember when I bought this pattern but I know I have brought it to the top of the heap multiple times before it sunk without trace again. Not this time 😁.
I really liked the details in this jacket but decided that this time it would have to do without the in seam decoration. After all this is just a wearable muslin…… . The fabric I decided to use was a creamy, putty, bleurgh coloured cotton twill that came from deep stash. I didn’t like it and kept delaying the start. What to do? So I bought dye on a Birmingham trip with the Demented Fairy, threw everything into the washing machine as instructed and turned the fabric colour to ‘Rosewood’. Much better.
I measured the actual pattern pieces to ensure I cut the right size and got going. I didn’t take too long to discover I needed to go down a size. It would seem I need to redo my measurements after all of my gym visits and running club gossipy runs. I also decided at this point that I wanted to spend a bit more time on the finish and bound all the seams (am I forgiven now for taking so long to post?).
In between general life, and just enjoying the unexpectedly lovely summer weather, I staggered to a completion this week. Check it out (on Bessie who is still my old size).
I was strangely happy spending time hand sewing the top stitch detail round the fronts and collar, and whilst I like the concealed packet I’m not sure it was actually worth the effort involved (although I might change my mind about that). I’m very happy with the seam bindings and would take more time to actually make a good job of it next time!
Even though you can’t see this on me I can say that I was very happy with it. I decided to show The Management and remind him what it was going to be made in. He liked it. He just thought that the leopard print would look better in the Style Arc pattern. He was asked his opinion before I started but hey….
Style Arc Stacie it is then. I think it’s going to be fabulous 😍
Ok, again I never intended to take this long before I posted again. Time seems to be running faster as I get older – something I never believed when other people said that – as there are just so many wonderful things to do around things that have to be done.
I have had a great month of May and can hardly believe it is June already. I have finally got the client work under firm control, and I think that now we are into June there should be less until the weather changes again. Phew! Of course, that doesn’t include the panics from people who have just received their ‘bargain’ prom dresses from China or wherever and discovered they don’t fit (already had one of those – and not even Mrs Mole could have waved her wand over that one!). Still, I’m not going to schedule time for ‘what might’, rather plan what I can do for me around what is already there – not forgetting a bit of time to drag the garden back under control.
BUT I finished my orange Style Arc Stacie jacket a couple of weeks ago and have been trying to get photographs in some interesting place rather than up against my house wall. A nice plain background I admit – but a bit bl**dy boring. Sadly The Management could never be described as likely to worry Bailey and I have struggled with the tripod indoors so there is no way I’m taking it out!
With no further ado, I introduce the orange Stacie…..
I know that when I first saw this pattern I considered making some changes but this version was made up exactly as designed. And I love it. I did ask The Management for his opinion of both orange jackets, and although he couldn’t say why he preferred this one. Just for comparison…
Both are made in identical fabric and made exactly as intended by the pattern maker. The Stacie was topstitched using the same thread as the construction, but using the triple stitch (supposed to be for stretch) from my machine that builds into a nice visible feature, whilst the Islander was topstitched with buttonhole thread. Other than that the materials are pretty much identical.
Stacie is more ‘pointy’, collar and corners, and has a more defined waistline. The Islander feels oddly heavier(?) and I just feel that it looks more ‘home made’ despite having some great features – check out the pockets and sleeve details.
I still think that I will change bits of the Stacie pattern in the future but now feel unlikely to make the Islander pattern again. I did use skills learned from the Janet Pray course whilst making up the Stacie so I feel the experience of making that was worthwhile. I have worn the orange jacket so much since I finished it that when I found a lonely chunk of black cotton twill I went straight ahead and made this.
I was so happy with the fit and styling of this jacket I have already printed Ziggi ready to gather what’s needed to make that.
Would anyone like the Islander pattern?
I have been trying to get on with my jacket but have been occupied fully in other directions. Anyway, I had printed out the Style Arc Stacie pattern and trimmed the pages ready to stick together so while I had my dear old mother-in-law to stay I thought I would get the sellotape busy. I made a lovely job of sticking all those sheets together. Brilliant I was. Then I realised it was in a size 16 and I should have printed the 14. Doh!
So back to the printer. Print, trim, and stick before tracing off the pattern. I thought I wanted to change the length and make one or two other little tweaks before hitting the fabric but I decided to make the first version up exactly as intended by Style Arc.
All going well again so I got the fabric out. It was the remains of the orange denim I made the Islander Patterns Jacket Express so I knew it had been pre washed and only needed to be ironed. I think it must have shrunk in the stash – there was a maximum length of 150cm – but it had chunks cut out at both ends so it wasn’t anywhere near as much as I remembered and I had severe doubts I would ever fit the whole pattern on.
Readers I think my luck may have changed. I got the pattern on with just shreds to spare. It was just as well that I didn’t decide to change the pattern at all as I’m not convinced that I could have fitted the adapted pattern into what I had. Check this out….
At last the jacket is cut out and the markings clipped – all done very carefully as I can’t afford any slip ups here. I’m told that Style Arc instructions can be a bit scant but since I draw my own patterns I’m used to working without instructions. Even so I will be going steady as we can’t be at home to Mr Mistake. No sir.
The client work is back under control so I might even be able to get back to the 30 minutes for me at the end of each day regime. Seems like the only way I actually get anything done for me when I’m busy.
I hope all your lives are under better control than mine!
Every so often something happens that makes us question our choices. The prompt this time was a blog post I read by Sew Tessuti who was showing a selection of patterns bought over a number of years – and so many very similar patterns.
This weekend I bought a couple of Style Arc patterns using the discount. Great time to try out a new to me pattern company who seem to have a very good following. Then I looked at what I had bought in the light of what I had read.
The first was a pattern bundle which included the Stacie jean jacket, Sally jean skirt, and Diana top. I really only wanted the jacket but it was such a good buy… well, you know the feeling. The other option was the Ziggi biker jacket.
These were both styles I really thought I would use – but wait a minute – do these look familiar?
Start with Stacie. I love jeans jackets. I have made a few in the past, check out this post, this one, and finally this one. Also, in a recent Patrones post I showed a jacket that isn’t a million miles from this. See a theme developing? All OK, but none exactly what I wanted.
The first (McCalls 5860) was a great basic shape but I followed the instructions pretty much as is and hated the way the lining was installed from the word go. The second was self drafted and just OK. I still wear it on occasion but it has never really thrilled me. The third was from a Craftsy course. I learned a bunch of stuff from the course, have worn this jacket quite a lot, but it seems a bit of a compromise jeans jacket. A ‘home sew’ option. I have read a number of blog posts about ‘Stacie’ and most are positive – but the pockets are just decorative rather than functional, and the cuffs seem to come in for some criticism. It would seem that the pattern companies are on a hiding to nothing as we have very specific ideas of what we want, but we don’t all want the same thing. Clearly I am going to have to do a bit of adaption to make Stacie exactly what I had in mind.
Now then Ziggi. I have seen some blisteringly good versions of Ziggi online. Check out Ruths version at Core Couture, or Shams at Communing with Fabric, or …. any one of loads. Brilliant jacket. Perfectly biker – just what I want. But I have already got the Janet Pray MotorCity Express pattern as part of another Craftsy course (not yet started). I have put off starting the course because I had slight reservations about the pattern. I knew the lack of a collar was something I was going to have to change, and no matter how much I know I have gained from the other Janet Pray courses I have watched this one languished. Is Ziggi closer to what I want? I think so, but I really must watch the course because I’m sure it will help construction when I decide what I am to do.
Both of these jacket styles can be dressed up or down according to need but are arguably both fairly casual, every day jackets. That’s OK. Sadly my lifestyle doesn’t really have great need for spectacularly ‘dressed up’ clothing. However, my concern is have I just fallen into a style rut where I simply choose what is comfortable and familiar, or have I actually found that rare beast – My Style?
…or vest if you are American.
I have been thinking about what I wanted to make with both the orange felted wool and brown merino jersey for long enough now. I have probably overthought the whole enterprise, which seems to be a common problem Chez Hood right now.
The main problem I have is that there is barely 140cm of the orange cloth (after washing) and I have spent ages convincing myself I can’t do what I want with that much. Rubbish. I’m planning to self draft this pattern so I can make sure it fits the fabric available. Within reason.
The other problem is that I can’t decide between two options. Think donkey between carrots. Yeah, that would be me at the moment and it isn’t going to get any better until I just get on with something!
All of the pictures of waistcoats shown really appeal. The Poetry waistcoat has been in my ‘I like this’ pile of pictures for an age. I can’t even remember when I put the booklet on the heap. *sigh* . The All Saints version is a prettier version in my opinion – but I still can’t decide which I prefer. I know I want to have pockets, it would be useful to be able to close against the wind/weather, I don’t want it to look too voluminous, and I want to be able to layer garments with it. What would probably happen is a hybrid version with the sections I like best from both.
I thought a neater, more ‘jackety’ option may be more useful – a bit like the Marcy Tilton Vogue 8430. Not necessarily a real ‘jacket’ but something edging that way.
I also liked the yellow Vogue 8932.
Check out that back detail – and it could be made sleeveless. Sadly I can’t currently think of a sensible pocket option. Not something to kill the option but I would have liked a pocket.
I’m going to start drawing the pattern for these garments and then just make a start. They aren’t so different so I may find that part way through I will make a final decision. I think I may be leaning towards the Yellow jacket, but after a cup of tea who knows. Any suggestions/preferences might be helpful – feel free to give opinions again.
I have (I think) decided to re-stash the brown merino for now. There are a number of things i would like to do and I am starting to feel a bit bogged down. I really need to clear a couple of projects to loosen a mental ‘log jam’. Does anyone else find this happens to them?
After making the calico toile that Jess tried on for fit on my last visit I intended to make her a ‘real’ version of the jacket that could be worn out. Without all the tailor tacks. Her fabric choice was a very utility style khaki twill weave cotton that I had in my stash. I had originally thought it would be nice to make this in something wonderful but in retrospect Jess chose the right fabric for her as she wanted to wear this in a very casual fashion.
The pictures were taken very quickly before we went out for the day so I apologise for the quality. In addition to that Jess had done her marathon training before we arrived and had already run 8 miles that morning. I think I might have wanted to go back to bed rather than walk around Kew Gardens with the olds.
I think the jacket fulfills the ‘casual’ requirement – but I can see it will probably be returned from time to time to have the back pleats pressed properly again. The fabric does crease a bit (which has helps maintain the crisp folds to the back) and I imagine it may need to be freshened up on occasion. Jess asked for both fronts to be made the same length which I think looks pretty good. I am happy with the result and whilst I would still like to make this for myself at some point I am happy to put it away for a little while. Possibly a long while.
That is the finished report so if you have no interest in making this you can leave now if you want!
The making up details.
Whilst many people seem to be reporting that they have downloaded this pattern not too many seem to be actually making it – possibly put off by the scant (though fine) instructions provided by Show Studio with the download. I am sure that others have made this in slightly different ways I will share my experience.
As I said in my last post about this pattern I had the file printed at a copy shop which meant that I didn’t have to paste all the odd shapes myself and possible doubt my result. This I can recommend.
I needed 2.5m of 150cm wide fabric (although you could probably manage with 2.25 if you squashed a bit more, or made both fronts the same length like Jess wanted). The layout is fairly easy, I laid the main large piece in place and then fitted around that. The pieces are:
- Front and back combined. Cut 2
- Centre back panel. Cut 1 (I fitted mine in on the fold by folding the pattern piece in half).
- Back facing. Cut 2
- Front panels (Decorative) Cut 2
- Sleeves. Cut 2
- Collar/front. Right side piece Cut 1 (Unless you make both sides the same length in which case use only this piece and cut 2)
- Collar front. Left side piece Cut 1.
There appears to be a 1cm seam allowance included in the pattern pieces – I sewed the jacket with this in mind and all the pieces fitted as expected. The grainlines are marked on the pieces but not in the way of the big 4 style patterns. Look closely and you will identify them easily.
I printed out a copy of the instructions from the download file and worked with that. However, I did make a few changes to the order and did a couple of things with this jacket that helped make things clearer for me.
I marked the letters on the pattern which needed to be matched in coloured pen, the bulk of the tailors tacks can be made in one colour but I used threads to match the colour on the pattern to mark the coloured ‘x’ marks. This helped when I got further in to the instructions. Don’t skip making the tailor tacks – even the ones that don’t appear to have a purpose help to get the creases folded correctly later.
Following the pattern instructions.
- As instructed. I pressed the seams toward CB having clean finished them in lining to neaten as they are visible inside this unlined jacket.
The photograph shows which edge of the pattern piece is CB. I got that wrong first time.
- After sewing into place I under-stitched to hold flat.
- Bust dart instruction. I found this straightforward but not everyone seems to agree. Ensure that you sew the short seam between markers and then sew the long seam only as far as the clip markers – not all the way to the point which gives you a straighter shape to the front piece.
I sewed this along the front edge to hold all the edges flat after pressing.
- Points C & Y need to be folded down in direction with the right side of the piece facing you. This will now complete the bust dart and you can see how this will work on the body as you hold the piece up.
- This seems like the simplest instruction on the pattern, folding shoulder notches to make a dart. However, I looked closely at the photographs on the Show Studio page and this should just be stitched at the shoulder edge to create a tuck, not a dart like I sewed. I guess it is personal choice but the tuck looks nice.
- Point P joins with the bottom of the opposite point. This creates a dart which is pressed on the inside.
- As instructed.
- As instructed.
- One point N is the top of the part sewn in part 9.
- Point M-M. I had problems eventually pressing the tuck without this 1cm stitched section distorting the garment so I unpicked this and left it. The tailor tacks ensure that you are making the fold in the correct shape.
- See above.
- As instructed.
- As instructed.
- This is where it starts to look as if it might just become what you thought!
- Not Yet! I wanted to sew the sleeves into place and neaten the edges at the armhole edge before sewing the side seam – by waiting I thought I would get a tidier finish.
- Fold the pattern in half to determine the short edge. This is important and will impact later if you get it wrong. I clean finished the bottom edge only before hemming.
- I clean finished the bottom of both piece 1 before hemming these separately from piece 4. Check that the side seam is still going to match the length of the back piece when the seam is sewn with the facing.
- The long edge of piece 4 will extend beyond the hemmed edge of piece one when folded. You can see the finished detail in the photograph.
- As instruction.
- As Instruction.
- As Instruction (though slight obvious difference if you are making edges equal).
- As Instruction
- As Instruction
- As instruction. I did this by hand to get a nice tidy finish.
- As Instruction. Clean finish as these will be visible.
- As instruction. Also clean finish.
- Don’t think you are getting this wrong when the sleeve seam isn’t level with the side seam – it sits slightly toward the front.
- As instruction – I clean finished.
- Now is where I sewed the side seam, folding the facing up to enclose the front piece. When the seam is pulled out and pressed towards the back it gives a lovely clean edge.
I tacked the folds into position on the back before pressing, clapping, and leaving the jacket on a hanger overnight to cool and set the creases.
By the time you get here you deserve to go and get a strong drink!
If you are thinking of having a go at making this jacket don’t be put off by the amount of instructions – most of what is done is fairly intuitive, and hopefully what I have been able to supply will help a bit too. Let me know if you make one!
A Management moment at Kew.
I spotted a raffia plant in one of the glass houses at Kew and got quite excited. “Did you use raffia at school when you were little” I asked. He looked faintly bewildered and after further explanation as to the use of raffia he replied
“No. We learned Latin”
That’s me told.
I spent last weekend with my daughter who kindly allowed me to invade again. It was the last weekend of the McQueen exhibition at the V&A and I really wanted another look. Can I say now that it didn’t disappoint.
Even just after 9am the queue for day tickets was already snaking its way around the block so I was very glad of my members early entry ticket. The exhibition space was more crowded this time than on my last visit but my guess is that it was going to be much worse later! We were able to enjoy the garments all over again, check out the close detail on some of the ones I identified from the book, and retire to the members room for a tea and pastry before hitting the shoe exhibition.
Whilst the shoes are fabulous I would probably not have made a trip to see them all on their own. The abiding memory will be the torture that must have been living with ‘Lotus feet’. The shoes are small beyond belief. There is some fabulous information on the V&A website which is well worth a look.
Inspired by my last visit I revisited a download that had sat quietly on my computer for a very long time waiting for me to feel brave enough to tackle it. This was the McQueen kimono pattern download from Show Studio (still available – McQueen Kimono pattern. ) I didn’t feel up to pasting all the sheets together for the pattern so had it printed at a local copy shop. The lady who printed it was very puzzled by it and asked what it was!
These images belong to Show Studio.com
The pattern download is one size, European 40 which wouldn’t fit me but would fit my dear Jess. Regardless of whether she would like it I wanted to just try making this up so cut it in calico. It fits into about 2.5m of 150cm wide fabric which isn’t in the download info. There are about a gazillion tailors tacks to make, not all are essential but I wouldn’t like to have missed any as this pattern is not for the faint hearted.
Once I was finished marking the jacket didn’t really take too long to sew. This was a definite case of ‘stop thinking, start sewing’ as the instructions are a bit ‘sketchy’ . Anyhoo, the pictures. Sorry for the quality but they have been photographed off my Blackberry as the blessed thing just wouldn’t be recognised by the computer and I had wasted too much time already.(That will teach me to check the camera batteries before I go away!)
I was delighted to find that the jacket fitted Jess perfectly – I’m not sure how I would have altered it – and she likes it! The plan now is to make it in a good but casual fabric so that she can use it through the autumn over jeans. Naturally I won’t be leaving the tailor tacks in the final version.
I love this design and may try adjusting the pattern to fit me – but not until I have moved this version.
We will be visiting her again in a few weeks so I will show the finished version then. Off to shop the stash for 2.5m of suitable fabrics before posting samples for her to choose from.
I am back after a short holiday with The Management in Gran Canaria to recharge my batteries with some long needed sunshine. Not only sunshine, I also managed three days scuba diving – heaven.
Anyway, once back I set to work on another Sewaholic Minoru Jacket which I cut out before I left. The warm, waterproof version has become my ‘go to’ jacket so another was clearly a good idea.
This version was to provide an alternative to the ‘warm’ Minoru’ for Spring (ever the optimist) and is made in a showerproof navy fabric which has been in the stash for too long to remember any details about it. It might be polyester but it feels a bit more natural so is probably a blend. I haven’t done a burn test as it was so obviously right for the circumstances it really didn’t matter what it is made from.The lining is also from stash – a very thick, densely woven polyester which meant that this was going to perform exactly as required without any additional interlining.
The only changes I made were to the cuff of the sleeve (as I mentioned in the last Minoru post this was the only thing I wasn’t really happy with), and used a two way zipper rather than just a separating zipper. This will help if I want to wear this in any seated position to prevent any ‘pull’ on the zipper bottom.
To change the sleeve I just drew the fold line more obviously on the cuff pattern piece and pinned that at the bottom of the sleeve piece to give the sleeve length required (don’t forget to allow the sleeve head seam allowance if you do this). The sides of the sleeve obviously wont match the cuff piece now so all I did was draw in a line from the cuff to the underarm and cut on that.When I sewed the sleeve I left a gap in the seam to insert the elastic, turned the cuff up from the fold line, sewed an edge seam to finish the edge better before making another seam to give the elastic casing. I did sew the lining to the cuff turn before I put the elastic into place as I thought that made it easier. I prefer this cuff to the original as I feel it is less bulky, but that is just personal choice and no criticism of the pattern.
And just for Rhonda (and anyone else really) …. a flash of the lining.
I am counting this as my garment for March as I expect to be very busy for the rest of the month doing sewing to raise funds for my darling daughter who is running in the years London marathon on behalf of Rockinghorse Childrens Charity (her running blog here). Not so long ago I thought I had ages. All of a sudden it is nearly here…. aargh!
I will show what I am making as I do it. Apologies if I vanish for a while again….